A conversation with
Diane Ducasse
It was in the heart of Montorgueil, in a building hidden away in a courtyard, that we met designer Diane Ducasse. Her DA/DA brand is a wardrobe offering that subverts masculine/feminine codes with boundless creativity. Diane welcomed us into her colorful and playful home for a conversation about fashion and lifestyle.
Hello Diane, tell us a little about yourself and your background...
I am the creator and founder of DA/DA Diane Ducasse, a high-end women's ready-to-wear brand inspired by men's wardrobes. I start from the idea that we steal a lot from our men's things, so why wouldn't they want to steal our clothes? I also extend this casual chic look to the rest of the women's wardrobe by adding Japanese touches. I started in fashion by studying at Studio Berçot. After studying at HEC and a stay in the United States, I was searching for myself a bit, and I met a designer who gave me back the desire to draw. I heard about Studio Berçot, and I went there quite by chance. I learned everything there, it was very interesting, and that's where I understood the job I wanted to do. Then I quickly followed up with several internships and professional experiences in fashion houses. I worked at Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, and Michel Vivien, and then I was the right-hand man of decorator Vincent Darré. We created special issues for the magazine L'Officiel de la Mode. Then I went freelance, collaborating with Inès de la Fressange, and at the same time, I created my own brand.
In your opinion, what is the ultimate fashion faux pas?
Flesh-colored tights. If they're worn with ballet flats or very old-fashioned mid-height pumps, they're a no-go for me!
Is fashion part of the family DNA?
I wasn't raised in a world linked to fashion, but rather in an artistic environment. The women in my family are all very artistic, but they don't necessarily make it their profession. So it wasn't easy for me to make the decision to make my artistic side a profession of passion... My sisters also found themselves facing this dilemma. We also have a mother who is very manual, she always painted, sculpted, made our costumes... My two grandmothers studied fine arts, which was quite modern for the time. As for my father, he is an entrepreneur, which obviously influenced me.
You're close to figures like Vincent Darré and Inès De la Fressange. Natalia Vodianova and Clara Luciani also wear DA/DA. Is it important for you to surround yourself with creative figures, and what do they bring to you?
It happens quite naturally, I don't seek it out. Natalia Vodianova, for example, discovered my brand at Le Bon Marché. As for Clara Luciani, I'm a huge fan of hers, so I'm very proud that she likes certain pieces. Vincent Darré and Inès de la Fressange are my godfather and godmother, my lucky stars. They support me, follow me, and encourage me. Yes, it's true that they inspire me a lot, and it nourishes me to have such personalities around me. Beyond our friendship, I admire them, and that's a blessing.
Can you tell us about your creative process for coming up with a collection?
There is no guiding principle, but when I see the fabrics, it immediately gives me ideas; I already imagine my timeless pieces. I am very sensitive to materials and colors; in fact, I don't have any black in my collections. I also opt more for men's materials because they are more qualitative and natural. To assemble them, I make everything in Paris. I try to make a quality, timeless product that will last, with modern and Japanese touches. I draw my influences from my daily life. I like to sit on a terrace to watch people go by, analyze their style, shapes and colors. I am very inspired by films, exhibitions, travel, ... everything that has unfortunately been rather limited in recent months. I also like to observe icons like David Bowie, his extraordinary costumes, or the colors that can be found in Frida Kahlo, etc.
We're here in your new apartment. What did you like about this place and how did you make it your own?
What I liked was this large living room, the light that comes in despite the opposite, and especially the calm that reigns here. We are right in the center of the 2nd arrondissement, but as we overlook a courtyard it is absolutely calm. For the decor, I already had a lot of furniture, my dear and tender did not have much so we sold some of my objects and we bought others together to make the space our own. We buy everything second-hand, because I like to take the time to choose pieces that have a history and value. I like to mix styles and influences and bring a modern touch to old things.
« I like to mix styles and influences and bring a modern touch to the old. »
You chose two By Charlot products for this apartment: the Totem in collaboration with Emmanuelle Roule, and our iconic La Talentueuse. Can you explain your choice?
I really like cacti [editor's note: find La Talentueuse in the Euphorbias category], I find them exotic, they make me travel. La Talentueuse has size, it's dignified, and I like the fact that it's prickly, I hate anything smooth. And then it's easy to maintain, and since I don't have a green thumb... As for the Totem pot, there's a slightly Dadaist, surrealist side, like a character with little arms and little hair that I really like. In addition, this pot reminds me of the influences I was raised with. I grew up in Réunion, where the local crafts are incredible, and that inspires me a lot when it comes to light and colors.
You were able to personalize the label, what did you write?
I wrote À DADA because I wanted this plant to be mine but also my lover's, to be part of this place. My brand is called DA/DA, his name is David, so we're both DADAs. And then there's a childlike connotation that I like...
« The Talented One has breadth, it's dignified, and I like the fact that it's spicy, I hate what's smooth. »
If you had to recommend three Instagram accounts of your choice?
There are plenty, but I really like seeing the photos of Louise Trotter , the artistic director of Lacoste. I'm a real fan of what she does: her approach to colors, her sense of aesthetics... I also have a friend who created the account Maggie on the Rocks , she's Spanish and has a knitwear brand. It's an account of inspirations from her photoshoots and she has great taste. Finally, Gilbert Kann which is a decoration account. He posts architectural photos that I find magnificent.
Finally, can you give us three small or big joys from your life as an entrepreneur?
The encounters I have are part of it, it's still rare and very enriching on a daily basis. Today for example, my work day is a photoshoot and an interview with you. I never know what will happen the next day. It can sometimes be scary but it's very cool. I am free to move around, to work wherever I want. The great luck I also had recently is this collaboration with Monoprix. I didn't have the somewhat heavy daily routine that I sometimes have in my life as an entrepreneur like accounting, administration, strategic decisions, and I was able to focus on pure creativity. They gave me carte blanche, I was able to do what I wanted and it was a great joy for me to see that they trusted me on that. I had the chance to create objects, decoration, children's clothing... There are lots of things like that that come up and brighten up an often stressful daily life.
